Sailing Through a World Wonder
Ha Long Bay Cruise on My 32nd Birthday
🎁 There’s a behind-the-scenes section at the end of this post – and today, it’s open for everyone to read!
It’s my way of saying thank you and sharing a moment that means a lot to me.
📍Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
We boarded our ship, and right after they handed me a cold towel (like in a real spa!), they asked, "How many are you?" When I said "One," the representative immediately knew which table to lead me to.
I got a table by the window, with a mesmerizing view of the limestone karsts that look like sleeping giants on the water. Next to my name appears another name - Nasser.
Okay, I thought to myself, hoping the day would pass peacefully, literally.
I sat down, and at the table next to me sat the group of Israelis from the bus. We started talking, and they asked me about my glasses. I gave my well-known pitch about how they're the best thing I've ever bought and how they've become an inseparable part of my life. I forgot to mention they're still not available for purchase in Israel, haha.
The guide spoke on the loudspeaker and we immediately dispersed to the buffet. The selection was limited, but sufficient. Besides sausages and chips, there was, of course, rice and a variety of cooked chicken and meat dishes, steamed vegetables, and tofu - a typical Vietnamese meal. After three such meals a day on the Loop tour, I already recognize the pattern.
I passed by a container of rich salad, and a quick look at the description revealed that it was none other than jellyfish salad. Yes, you read that right. I hesitated for a moment, but decided that today, as I turn 32, I'm eating jellyfish salad for the first time, while hoping I won't end up in the hospital.
To tell the truth, it didn't really have much taste, but the texture is exactly as you'd imagine - gelatinous and a bit slippery. A birthday is the time to try new things.
Immediately after finishing the meal, I went out to wander around the ship to get to know it and officially start celebrating. I was ahead of everyone, so I had enough time to catch the sun and take photos worthy of this special day.
I stood on the deck and looked at the incredible scenery around me. Ha Long Bay, wow. The guide told us that what gives this place its "wonder of the world" status are these huge cliffs that simply grow out of the water. I learned that there are over 1,600 such rocks here, and I've never seen anything like it.
I felt on cloud nine. This was that moment when you thank the person who arranged the gift, and that's exactly what I did. "Thank you for bringing me to celebrate in a world wonder, you're amazing!"
"With love, Maya, with love."
We arrived at the first station. The truth is, I had no idea what the schedule was, which is so unlike me, and the guide was also a bit hard to understand. But when I heard that the options were either to go hiking on one of the mountains into a stalactite cave or to stay on the ship, I knew I should go.
We left the ship along with tourists from other ships that were in the bay. I understand now why they say it's too touristy. Only one Israeli from our group joined the hike, so we did the trail together.
It was more "climbing stairs" than actual mountain climbing, as we had thought. Lucky. It was interesting to hear his story, about the plans he had before COVID and how everything went wrong, about the relaxed trip he's doing now with friends, before he starts life back in Israel. I understand so well why one needs this. It's like fueling the car before a journey, except here we're talking about our souls. And in Israel, the journey is not easy at all.
He told me they're going on the Loop tour in two days, and they paid $10 more to be in a group of Israelis. When I told him I opened my Substack because my audience isn't on Facebook and Instagram, he said, "Ah! I'm just learning about that in a course! You need to start with a personal story, you need to tell something personal about yourself an,d that's how you draw readers to continue reading."
I couldn't help but burst into uncontrollable laughter. "The whole essence of my stories is personal stories, but no, I'm not trying to draw people to keep reading like some practiced tactic. I simply write, and find that people connect with it, just not on networks of immediate dopamine, where no one has the patience to read long texts."
We entered a huge stalactite cave that water and time had carved over millions of years. It's called "Thien Cung Cave" or "Heavenly Palace Cave," and its name certainly suits it. It's one of the most impressive caves in the area, with huge halls full of stalactites and limestone deposits in strange and spectacular shapes. Colorful lighting illuminates the stalactites, creating a magical and almost mystical atmosphere.
We walked in it for long minutes, a line of people from all directions, some trying to capture the perfect picture, but you can't delay the line. Along the way, we heard the guide tell about this stalactite that resembles a dragon, and about this young and shiny rock compared to its old and eroded neighbor. I wondered how much of what he said was true.
On the way out of the cave, we climbed many stairs, and in front of us walked an elderly woman, very elderly. Sorry, it's not nice to say this about her - she wasn't walking, she was running!
She moved so fast, and I felt uncomfortable that I was panting. "If she can do it - anyone can!" I said to the guy with me, and when we saw her at the summit, I had to tell her: "Well done! You're amazing!"
The next station was the lagoon area. Beyond the kayaking included in the price, it was possible to add 300K dong (about $13) for a speedboat ride.
I didn't think twice, because I remembered how much fun I had the last time I did this in Mexico. And indeed, this time it was amazing too!
We got on the boat, and when I asked the guide where the best place to sit was (a strange question from an excited child), he said that if I like speed, then I should sit in the back.
Perfect. I sat there, and the boat moved so fast! The driver made such twisted turns, and one moment I felt high up, and the next I almost touched the water. I laughed and screamed like a child, with a huge smile plastered on my face. I enjoyed it so much!
I looked around and didn't see anyone else even smiling. It seems people aren't excited or aren't enjoying themselves. I'm the happiest person here!
The scene around us was simply breathtaking. The boat raced between the mighty limestone karsts, which look like ancient guardians of the bay. As the boat raged over the water, there was a feeling as if we were dancing with the cliffs, approaching and distancing in a wild dance. The sun reflected in the turquoise waters, breaking into thousands of sparks as the boat cut through the water at speed.
We continued with kayaking to a large lagoon. When the guide told us about the kayaks in the morning, I asked him to let me be in a kayak alone. I wanted to experience it this time, to take proper photos, and to celebrate my birthday on a kayak.
He said no problem, smiled, and said: "It's your day!"
But at the moment of truth, when we lined up for kayaks, he suddenly said it wasn't possible and that I should go up with someone else from another group. She also wanted to be alone in a kayak, so we both made a face.
I sat behind her, very far from my original plan, but hey, at least we'll enjoy it. Well, not really.
There were so many people that so many crashed into us. The entrance to the lagoon is a narrow passage that bamboo boats also pass through, creating a real traffic jam. Beyond almost getting hit in the head with a paddle, or the fact that, luckily, we kept our hands inside the kayak, because it could be really dangerous.
In short, not the experience I expected, like the amazing sailing in the Philippines. But at least the girl was lovely. She was from Perth, Australia. She is a physiotherapist who loves her job, and as usual, I told her about myself.
"It's my birthday!" I said in an excited child's voice.
"Wow! Happy birthday! How cool that you're here on your birthday!" She got excited with me.
We took a short tour and came back. This time I returned to the ship and we were on our way to the next station - a small beach with a volleyball court and lots of people, mainly to swim a bit and rest, that is, to take photos.
The water was clear and pleasant, a deep turquoise color that almost looked artificial. The beach was surrounded by these limestone cliffs, creating a small and intimate bay. For a moment, if you squint your eyes and ignore the hordes of tourists, you can imagine it's a deserted island, disconnected from the world.
But then, I found myself sitting on the beach, crying.
Something’s weighing on me, and in a moment of distraction, it took over all of me. I realized I had made a mistake and paid a heavy price for it. When I couldn't find answers, I turned to the only one who could help - ChatGPT. He treated me with dedication and started with "First of all, let's calm the guilt," and in one of the sentences, he simply wrote: "You acted against your inner compass, and that's why you feel this way."
A cry burst out of me that I couldn't stop. I didn't care that people around me could see, I didn't care that I was at one of the seven wonders of the world, I didn't care that it was my birthday. I'm the saddest person here.
I already had to go back to the ship, and I tried to blur the evidence. I breathed deeply and understood that it would take me time to recover from this, and that I should concentrate on this day because it's a happy day.
This time we boarded the ship on the way back. "The sail back will take an hour and a half," said the guide, and everyone turned to their business. Some went up to the upper floor and spent time there, some entered the jacuzzi, and some simply fell asleep on the comfortable sofas. I sat and looked at the horizon. Marveling at the scenery, understanding that everything is for the best.
The sunset began to paint the sky in shades of orange and pink, and the cliffs turned into dark silhouettes against the burning sky. The sight was so beautiful that I felt the tears returning, but this time for a completely different reason.
After some time, there was an announcement on the loudspeakers calling us to gather on the lower floor for a sunset party. There were light desserts, sponge cake, crackers, sweet drinks, and on the projector - a picture of a sunset.
It was quite funny because everything around was cloudy and misty, and to justify the concept of a sunset party, you need, well, a sunset.
I sank into my phone, saw wishes that made me happy, talked with my family, and in one of the conversations, suddenly heard a birthday song in the background, and saw the guide advancing towards me with a cake!
That was so nice of them! Everyone around applauded, and I was, as usual, embarrassed and excited at the same time.
On the way back in the minibus, everyone fell asleep, and only I sat and wrote, and wrote and wrote.
When we approached the city, the guide asked where to drop me off in the district, and when I answered "at the night market, please!" he made a face and said "Really?!" as if surprised that I still had energy after this busy day. I’ll tell you about that in my next post…
🎬 Behind the scenes
What I Learned on My 32nd Birthday
I do such fun things, and truly live life to the fullest, but a day like this, so rich in its essence, so powerful in its energy - I think I felt the entire spectrum of emotions today, and that's exactly what makes this day amazing.
It's not the happiest day, it's not the saddest day, it's not the scariest day. It's the day I felt simply everything. I was angry at a level that doesn't happen to me on a regular day, I cried tears that I couldn't stop, I felt the peak of happiness until all I could say was "thank you, thank you, thank you". I feared the unknown, I was stressed by the known, I even hated, for just a moment, and I loved.
I loved with all my heart, exactly this, the ability to feel everything intensely. I loved the tears that fell when I was sitting on the beach, I loved that instead of the initial thought of "stop stop, not here, not appropriate, not today, pull yourself together, there are people here" I managed to love, and let them trickle down my cheek, without wiping them away, until I said out loud "I thought this was the right thing to do" and here they are again as I write and hours have passed.
I understood that all I need to hear, from myself and from others, is "it's okay, nothing happened, everything is alright."
But mistakes are still the hardest challenge, because this is where criticism thrives. This is its playground, it's just waiting for me to make a mistake, and burns everything I've built to the ground.
I want to make mistakes and forgive myself. And I can't.
I understand that until I succeed, this will continue to happen, and that's why I so badly want to succeed already, but I can't.
I'm trying to think if I've ever made a mistake in my life and been forgiven for it, if someone else ever made a mistake and I forgave them, maybe on the surface yes, but did I really, deep inside, forgive?
Probably not.
And maybe this is the real gift of birthday 32 - not the amazing sail in Ha Long Bay, not the cake with candles, not the crazy speedboat, but this moment of understanding that I need to learn to forgive. Myself, others, and life itself.
Your support helps me to continue experiencing new worlds and sharing them with you through my words. Sometimes, a single cup of coffee can make a difference.
Thank you for being part of this journey.
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That's cool 😎