I Lost Myself on a Scooter in El Nido and Found What Most Tourists Miss

How the honking language and hidden beaches taught me that the real journey isn't on TripAdvisor's must-see list

📍El Nido, The Philippines

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I'd been wanting to rent a scooter and wander around the island for ages. Here in El Nido, I found the perfect opportunity – stunning areas scattered along the coast that you can't reach on foot, and renting a scooter for 500 pesos a day is much better than taking a tricycle that costs way more.

I made sure I had a helmet and international extreme sports insurance (yes, apparently riding a scooter is considered extreme sports by some insurance companies – who would have thought?). I set off, reminding myself that it's just like riding a bicycle, only with a small, cute engine. At that moment, I felt a sharp pang of nostalgia for the scooter I'd left back in Israel, which has already found new owners.

I planned my route in advance, responsible as always, but while sipping my coffee at breakfast, I caught the waiter recommending a beach to the couple at the table next to mine. My ears perked up immediately, though I couldn't quite catch the name. Should I butt into their conversation? No way, I'm not that kind of tourist.

At the scooter rental, the guy asked where I was heading. "South along the coast, to Las Cabanas, where I'll watch the sunset," I answered with the confidence of someone who had read all the Google reviews.

"Oh great, but it's still early. You should start by heading north to Nacpan Beach, it's amazing there in the morning!"

"That's the name I heard earlier!" I silently screamed with childlike excitement. Here was the sign I was looking for, arriving without me even asking. Okay, I got the message from the universe – that's where I'll go.

I entered the destination in Google Maps and set off. I listened to the directions through my smart glasses, trying to capture every bit of scenery: the bumpy roads, the rural areas of El Nido, the shaded wooden huts along the way. I found myself observing the everyday lives of the people here – barefoot children running, women hanging laundry, men loading fruits onto motorcycles.

After about half an hour of riding, I arrived at a beautiful beach – wide, inviting, looking exactly how I had imagined the Philippines would be. A man cutting fresh coconuts, hammocks swinging gently in the breeze facing turquoise waters, white sand stretching endlessly. This is exactly what I was looking for.

I spread my blanket on the soft sand and simply relaxed, feeling the sun warming my skin and the place warming my heart. I remembered why I loved going to the beach in Tel Aviv every day before work – it was my meditation hour, quietness with the scent of waves. I suddenly missed that time.

Time was flying, and the day was short – there were many more beaches to see. Before getting back on the scooter, I wanted to wash off the salty seawater. I walked toward a small building at the edge of the beach, and then I saw a strange sign detailing prices... according to bodily needs. I already knew that there's a water problem in the Philippines and using more water costs more, but is the difference between number 1 and number 2 that dramatic?

As if that wasn't awkward enough, there was an elderly lady sitting there asking everyone who entered in a loud voice: "What are you going to do in there?" Privacy? Left the chat. Luckily, I only needed a shower, but I later realized this was just the first time I encountered this phenomenon. That's how it is on the islands, and just like everything else when traveling – you have to get used to it.

I set off again, this time heading south. Most of the ride was on El Nido's main road, so it was quite smooth and pleasant. There weren't many vehicles on the road either, so I felt safer.

While driving, I learned a new language – the honking language.

In Manila, it felt like everyone was just honking for no reason, all the time. As if someone notices a moment of silence and realizes it disrupts the organized chaos, so they have to honk. Although that's partially true, I discovered there's a whole honking language.

Beyond "watch out, I'm here" or service vehicles honking at pedestrians to "politely ask" if they need a ride, I suddenly realized people honk to signal "hey" when they see their friend in the opposite lane, or even to say "thank you" when I let them overtake me. It's basically the road language, and you can only learn it when you're actually in it.

Suddenly it doesn't sound like "noise" anymore, because like any language you don't understand, it can be jarring to the ear. But once you learn the language and speak it, everything becomes much more pleasant and you feel like you're part of it. Don't think I started honking though – I'm an introvert in every language 🤭

I arrived at Bella Vita restaurant, which I'd heard recommendations about. Although I planned to sit at the beachfront restaurant, I found myself drawn to walk on the beach, where I spotted a swing. I have a small weakness for swings, apparently. For a moment, I was back in childhood, only this time with a breathtaking view in front of me.

I surrendered to the quiet, spread my blanket on the beach, and lay down to gaze at the boats in the bay and the peaceful movement of the waves. It was so relaxing.

My next stop was Blend & Grind coffee shop, which looked great on Google, and well – it was time for second breakfast 😅. This coffee shop is located in a really cool pedestrian area with various restaurants and shops. At its entrance, there's a tricycle station, which hints at the central location. I'm sure there's vibrant activity here in the evening. As for me, the caramel coffee and avocado toast I ordered were exactly what I needed.

I planned to go to Panorama Beach, but one look at the steep descent made me continue south on the main road. And lucky that I did, because after a few minutes I came across a huge sign that read "Vanilla Beach." Even though I hadn't heard of it before, my gut feeling said it was worth a visit. Oh, and also because there was a McDonald's there.

Not that I planned to eat there, but I've learned to recognize McDonald's as strategic locations – that's how I know it's a central spot in any city I visit. Because if you've seen the movie, you understand that McDonald's isn't a food chain, it's a real estate empire.

I parked the scooter in a row with many others, hoping I'd be able to identify it when I returned. I walked along the long promenade toward the beach, passing numerous shops, an open-air gym, restaurants, bars, and realized this was a great place to be.

I even saw HayHay café right by the beach, the one I was debating whether to visit and eventually decided against. I immediately realized I had bet on the wrong horse because everything happens here – this is THE coolest beach in El Nido, this is the place to be. <Task created for next visit>

I wandered around the beach and was captivated by its charm. Everyone here is beautiful, everyone here is happy – because we're sitting on a beach in the Philippines, what could possibly be wrong? I let time stop, and felt how fortunate I am.

I sat at the nearest restaurant and ordered a piña colada, because that's exactly what suits this moment when the DJ is playing excellent techno music and I'm dancing in my chair, smiling at the world.

Toward sunset, many people left, and many arrived. They say the most beautiful sunsets can be seen here on the beaches of El Nido, but for me this day had already stretched long enough. I preferred to drive back while the sun was still in the sky, so I stopped to refuel with 100 pesos, and returned to the scooter agency where they simply gave me back my license and said goodbye.

I returned to my apartment tired but satisfied. All the beaches I saw today were insanely beautiful, each in its own style. But what I enjoyed most was simply riding. Just riding a scooter and seeing how local people really live here. Sometimes when we go from point A to point B, we miss everything that happens in between, and that's exactly what I didn't want to miss.

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