Life on the Other Side of Tulum: Between Luxury and Challenge

Mar 14, 2025

Tulum is a city of contrasts. On one hand, luxurious beach clubs, stunningly beautiful people, and nonstop music. On the other, massive potholes in the roads, complete darkness on the main highway, and a body that suddenly decides it’s had enough.

This is what real life in Tulum looks like—beyond the picture-perfect Instagram shots. When I returned at the end of December, I knew this would be the moment to close the loop—four months of traveling through Mexico.

What I didn’t know was how much these final days would teach me about the beautiful chaos that is a life in motion.

📍 Tulum, Mexico | 30/12/2022

Someone to Rely On

The hotel saga: Unlike Playa, Tulum is divided into two main areas—downtown and the beach, about 6 km apart. Meaning, you need transportation, whether it’s taxis, colectivos, a scooter, or a bicycle—walking isn’t an option.

Two months ago (!) I booked a bed in a 10-bed female dorm at Selina Tulum through Booking. What was I thinking? No idea. Probably about the location—Selina is known for having prime locations worldwide, and sure enough, the hotel had been fully booked for a while.

But after doing some research, I realized I’d rather stay downtown and rent a scooter to get to the beach and the festival. So, I canceled my Selina booking.

I found an app called Cozy Cozy through an ad. It claimed to compare all travel sites—Booking, Airbnb, Expedia, etc. Sounded perfect.

The app redirected me to a site called VERBO, where I booked a hotel on the main street in downtown Tulum—but at the far end of it.

As the date approached, I asked the host for the exact address. He sent me a location completely different from what was listed—3 km away, exactly in the middle between downtown and the beach.

What?!

I immediately explained the issue to him and contacted the site’s support, who asked for proof. Fair enough.

I searched for the hotel again in the app, and sure enough—the locations didn’t match. I sent them a screen recording and requested a refund.

The booking was for tomorrow.

How was I supposed to find a decent place, at a reasonable price, in the location I wanted, at the peak of Tulum’s high season—one day before check-in?!

All I could think was: Where am I supposed to be? What is the universe planning for me?

I opened Airbnb.

I found an apartment that looked amazing, in the best location I could have asked for—one block from the main street, right in the heart of everything. And it was cheaper than the previous place.

Honestly? I was shocked.

I booked it immediately, feeling completely at peace and excited to take on Tulum—one bite at a time.

📍 Tulum, Mexico | 31/12/2022

Beach Clubs

One of the most popular attractions in Tulum is its luxurious beach clubs. Luxurious—because the minimum entry fee is $120, half of which can be used for food and drinks. There are designated areas for individuals and groups, depending on the number of people.

The first person you see at the entrance is a cop, and right behind him, a guy openly offering to sell drugs. Let’s just say, he’s not whispering. Hey, Narcos.

Sitting in the beachfront area, you can watch vendors of all kinds bringing their finest goods, so you don’t even have to get up from your chair to shop.

Everyone here is beautiful. Watching people walk along the shore feels like a runway show. Everyone is constantly taking pictures, while I’m just sitting here stuffing my face like an animal. Wow, I’m loving this. Tulum is a city full of magic and style, and if you don’t follow the norms—you’ll get left behind.

I had always heard people talk about Tulum’s unique style, but I never understood the hype. Once you get here, though, it’s impossible not to notice. I imagine Paris gives off the same kind of vibe—a city dripping with effortless chic that sweeps you up. (Apologies, I’m in the middle of Emily in Paris season three.)

Fashion is so not my thing, and I love just being myself—but watching from the sidelines is definitely fascinating. The city is stunning, everything is designed with impeccable taste, yet the contrasts remind me that I’m still in Mexico.

Like the massive potholes in the middle of the road—I’d call them sinkholes, but I need you to believe me. Or the fact that the main road to the beach has only one lane in each direction and zero streetlights. It’s dangerous—especially on a scooter, and on a bicycle? Suicidal.

And if you take a taxi? Prepare to arrive tomorrow, because the traffic jam stretches beyond the horizon. At night, I wandered through the insanely beautiful bars and could totally see myself living here.

I met such interesting, diverse people and realized I was exactly where I was meant to be—because the kind of people who come here think like me. Otherwise, they wouldn’t be here.

📍 Tulum, Mexico | 03/01/2023

Painkiller and Go

I slept all day.

I glanced at my phone—it reminded me that I was on day 4 out of 8 in Tulum.I got up, determined. I’m in freaking Tulum! What am I thinking?! Pull yourself together. Now.

Maybe my body is weak, but my spirit is the strongest in the world. Dear body, I gave you two full days to rest. I got the message—third-world country and all—but I need one last push here, a team effort.

Sorry, Mom, but I have four days left in Mexico, and I’m going to celebrate them with everything I’ve got. I grabbed my scooter (and a painkiller) and rode off. No idea where—just toward the beach. Let’s see what happens.

I ended up at a super cool restaurant (and packed—already a good sign). Sat at the bar and ordered a cocktail. The bartenders were insanely nice and professional. We talked about alcohol, and they handed me a free mezcal shot. Wow. I had forgotten what this felt like.

In Israel, any bar, any time of day, within minutes—you get a shot of arak or something similar. Here, that’s not the norm, so it was a pleasant surprise. I kept walking, and everywhere, I heard incredible techno music, mostly from restaurants.

How cool is that? These are exactly the kinds of places I’d love to bartend. I ended up at one of the most famous beach clubs—VAGALUME. There was a party, and the music was some of the best I’ve heard lately. The energy was unreal.

And there it was again—the smile. Tulum, I’m in love with you!

📍 Tulum, Mexico | 06/01/2023

Dramatic Exit

As I left the party and walked towards my scooter, I realized I had lost my keys—both for the scooter and my apartment.

I’d be lying if I said I didn’t panic. It was 8 AM. I had planned everything perfectly to make check-out on time and catch my 11 AM bus to the airport.

I called my landlord. Other than a small fee for a replacement key, there was no problem—"Just get here, and I’ll unlock the door for you."

The real issue was the scooter, which I had to return today, along with the cash deposit I had left for it. The rental company told me their guy with the spare key could only arrive around 10 AM—which was too late for me.

I explained my situation, and we agreed that I would leave the scooter there, and they would transfer my deposit via an app. I took a taxi back at an absurd tourist price. For an hour, my mind raced with worst-case scenarios—missing the bus, missing my flight.

But the moment I got moving, I realized—this was just a money problem, and everything would be fine. Right then, I received an email: my flight was delayed by two hours, meaning I would miss my connecting flight.

Because who even wants a smooth departure?

Now, I’m on my way to the airport. I should probably write some final words, but no. I refuse to believe that tomorrow morning, I won’t wake up in Mexico. That I won’t hear Spanish everywhere. That this is really over.

Fine. A few words. Today, as I leave Mexico, I’m grateful for this experience. I can say with certainty—this was the best decision of my life.

What a journey. I feel like I’ve been through so much in such a short amount of time. And now, four months—some of the most significant of my life—have come to an end.

This isn’t a farewell speech, because I’m in complete denial. I refuse to believe that tomorrow, I’ll be in freezing Germany. Maybe this is goodbye, but I’m not sad. I’ve surrounded myself with things to look forward to, and they outweigh the sadness.

Yes, I’m leaving probably the most incredible place in the world. But I’m going to reunite with my family, whom I’ve missed so much.

Mexico taught me a lot. Even when the lessons weren’t always easy, I still appreciate them. I know I’ll be back. I’m just curious to see when.

My time in Tulum, like my entire journey through Mexico, was full of contradictions. I searched for the perfect place to stay, and instead, I got a lesson in flexibility and going with the flow.

I sought a picture-perfect experience at a beach club, and instead, I was reminded that beneath all the glamor, there are still potholes in the road and conditions that remind you where you really are.

I left Tulum with two major lessons:

The first—there’s no such thing as a perfect experience. There will always be challenges, surprises, and moments you didn’t plan for.

And the second, perhaps the more important one— No matter what happens, somehow, things always work out in the end. And even when things go wrong, they’re just part of the journey.

In the end, it was precisely these contradictions, these imperfect moments, that made this journey feel so real. So mine.

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